Running Sinker Rig
Estuary, beach, bayEasyBait fishing over sand, mud and gutters where fish must run with the bait
What you need
- Mainline 8–15 lb braid or 10–20 lb mono
- Ball or bean sinker sized to hold bottom only
- Small swivel
- Leader 40–80 cm of 10–25 lb fluorocarbon
- Hook: 1/0–4/0 circle or suicide, matched to bait size
How to tie it
- Thread the ball sinker onto the mainline so it runs freely.
- Tie the mainline to one eye of the swivel with a uni or improved clinch knot.
- Cut 40–80 cm of leader and tie it to the other eye of the swivel.
- Tie the hook to the leader with a snell or improved clinch, depending on bait.
- Set the drag light enough that a fish can move a metre before loading up.
Catches: Bream, Dusky flathead, Mulloway, Snapper, Whiting
On-water tip: Use the lightest sinker that will still hold the bottom. In an estuary that is often a size 0 or 1 ball — the bait then drifts naturally in the current instead of anchoring in one dead spot.
Most common mistake: Running a leader too short. Under 30 cm the fish feels the sinker and drops the bait before the hook turns.
Paternoster (Dropper) Rig
Offshore, deep bay, rock ledgeEasyPresenting one or two baits just above a reef, wreck or weedy bottom
What you need
- Leader 60–100 lb for reef, 20–40 lb inshore
- Two dropper loops or crimped stand-offs
- Snapper lead or star sinker on the bottom loop
- Hooks: 4/0–8/0 circle or octopus
How to tie it
- Cut a metre of leader and tie a small loop at the top for the mainline connection.
- Tie two dropper loops 30 cm and 60 cm below that top loop.
- Attach the sinker to the bottom tag with a simple loop-to-loop.
- Tie a hook to each dropper loop, or snell them for a tighter presentation.
- Drop straight down, take up the slack, then hold the rod so the sinker just taps bottom.
Catches: Snapper, Pearl perch, Nannygai, Tiger flathead, Morwong
On-water tip: Keep the droppers short and stiff — 8–12 cm — so the baits stand out from the trace instead of tangling around it on the drop.
Most common mistake: Sitting hard on the bottom in current. Lift the sinker every ten seconds or you will bury your baits in the sand and feed nothing but crabs.
Braid-to-Leader System (FG)
EverywhereAdvancedThe foundation connection for all modern lure fishing
What you need
- Braid mainline 8–30 lb
- Fluorocarbon leader, roughly double the braid rating
- Optional loop knot or clip at the lure end
How to tie it
- Tension the braid between a rod-butt clip and your teeth or a knot tool.
- Weave the leader over and under the braid twenty times.
- Lock the weave with a half hitch over both strands, then five to seven half hitches on the leader tag.
- Finish with a rizzuto and trim both tags flush.
- Wind the finished knot onto the spool and test it by pulling straight against the drag.
Catches: All lure targets
On-water tip: Leader length equals rod length for casting work, or double that when you are fishing rock ledges and need abrasion insurance below the rod tip.
Most common mistake: Trimming the braid tag long. Any stub catches in the guides and turns a 40 m cast into a 20 m one.
Jig Head and Soft Plastic Rig
Estuary, bay, offshoreEasySearching flats, drop-offs and structure with a sinking soft plastic
What you need
- Jig head 1/16 oz to 1 oz depending on depth and current
- Hook size matched to the plastic (1/0 for 3", 4/0 for 5")
- Soft plastic: paddle tail, jerk shad or curl tail
- Fluorocarbon leader 10–30 lb
How to tie it
- Lay the plastic alongside the jig head and mark where the hook point should exit.
- Thread the hook point into the nose, along the centre line, and out at your mark.
- Slide the plastic up so it seats hard against the collar with no bends.
- Tie the jig head on with a non-slip loop knot for maximum action.
- Cast, count the lure down to the depth you want, then hop or roll it back.
Catches: Flathead, Bream, Snapper, Mulloway, Barramundi
On-water tip: Weight is depth control, not casting weight. Add just enough lead to feel the bottom tap within a five-second count.
Most common mistake: A crooked plastic. If it is not dead straight on the jig it spins, twists your leader and gets refused by every fish that sees it.
Live Bait Rig
Bay, offshore, headlandModerateSwimming a live yakka, mullet or herring for big predators
What you need
- Leader 40–100 lb fluorocarbon, 1–1.5 m
- Optional small ball sinker running to the swivel
- Main hook 5/0–8/0 circle
- Optional stinger treble or single on a short trace
How to tie it
- Tie the leader to a swivel, keeping the sinker above it if you need depth.
- Pin the main hook through the bridge of the nose or the shoulder, missing the spine.
- If you are adding a stinger, set it just ahead of the tail with a short trace.
- Lower the bait, do not cast it, then let it swim on a light drag.
- When a fish takes, let it run and simply wind until the circle hook loads up.
Catches: Kingfish, Mulloway, Spanish mackerel, Cobia, Barramundi
On-water tip: Nose-hooked baits swim away from the boat and cover water; shoulder-hooked baits stay deep and panic more. Pick the one that suits the structure you are working.
Most common mistake: Striking. Circle hooks set themselves — a hard strike pulls the hook straight out of the fish's mouth.
Surf Beach Rig
Surf beachModerateCasting long from a beach gutter with pipis, worms or pilchards
What you need
- Mainline 20–30 lb braid with a 40 lb shock leader
- Star sinker or grapnel 3–6 oz
- Two-hook snelled pennell rig, 3/0–5/0
- Bait clip or breakaway clip for aerodynamics
How to tie it
- Tie a shock leader of five rod-lengths so the cast load never sits on the braid.
- Run the sinker on the bottom of a paternoster trace for gutter work.
- Snell two hooks 5 cm apart so a long bait sits straight.
- Clip the baited hooks into the bait clip to streamline the cast.
- Cast into the back of the gutter, then wind slowly until the sinker just holds.
Catches: Australian salmon, Tailor, Mulloway, Whiting, Bream
On-water tip: Fish the gutter, not the horizon. On most Australian beaches the fish are inside 30 m in the trough, and a big cast puts your bait over the top of them.
Most common mistake: Too much lead. A grapnel that never moves keeps your bait out of the feeding zone once the gutter shifts on the tide.
Float (Bobby Cork) Rig
Rock, estuary, harbour wallEasyDrifting bait over weed beds, wash zones and snaggy ground
What you need
- Pencil or bobby float sized to the bait
- Stopper knot or bead above the float to set depth
- Small split shot below the float
- Leader 12–30 lb, hook 1/0–4/0 or size 8 for luderick
How to tie it
- Tie a stopper knot on the mainline at the depth you want to fish.
- Thread on a bead, then the float, then a small split shot.
- Tie the leader on via a swivel and finish with your hook.
- Cast up-current and let the float drift naturally through the strike zone.
- Strike on the float going under and staying under, not on a bob.
Catches: Luderick, Garfish, Tailor, Bream, Trevally
On-water tip: Set the depth so the bait rides just above the weed. Reset it every stage of the tide — the same setting is wrong an hour later.
Most common mistake: Overweighting the float so it sits low. It should sit high and cock cleanly, otherwise you will never see a soft take.
Wire Trolling Rig for Mackerel
Offshore, headland, reef edgeModerateTowing garfish, slimies or hard bodies for toothy pelagics
What you need
- Mono or fluoro trace 80–130 lb
- Single-strand wire 30–60 lb for the last 30 cm
- Gang of two to three trebles or a single-plus-stinger
- Swivel and optional pusher skirt
How to tie it
- Crimp or haywire twist the wire to the lead hook.
- Add the stinger hook on a short wire link so it sits just past the bait's dorsal.
- Connect the wire to the mono trace via a small heavy swivel.
- Rig the bait to swim straight — check it beside the boat before you let line out.
- Troll at 4–6 knots, staggering baits at different distances behind the wash.
Catches: Spanish mackerel, Spotted mackerel, Wahoo, Queenfish
On-water tip: Keep the wire section short. Mackerel see wire in clear water, so use only enough to protect against the bite-off point.
Most common mistake: A bait that spins. It will twist your entire trace into a corkscrew inside five minutes and catch nothing.
Carolina Rig
Impoundment, deep estuaryEasyDragging a plastic along the bottom in current or deep impoundment water
What you need
- Bullet sinker 1/4–1 oz running on the mainline
- Bead and swivel
- Leader 40–60 cm fluorocarbon
- Worm or wide-gape hook 2/0–4/0, plastic worm or creature bait
How to tie it
- Slide the bullet sinker and bead onto the mainline.
- Tie the mainline to the swivel so the bead protects the knot.
- Add the leader and rig the plastic weedless on the hook.
- Cast, let it sink, then drag the sinker along bottom with the rod, not the reel.
- Pause after every drag — most bites come when the plastic settles.
Catches: Golden perch, Murray cod, Bass, Mangrove jack
On-water tip: The sinker's job is to kick up silt and make noise. The plastic trails behind it weightless, which is exactly why the rig converts fussy fish.
Most common mistake: Winding through the retrieve. You lose bottom contact and the whole point of the rig disappears.
Crab Pot and Bait Setup
Estuary, mangrove creek, bayEasyLegally potting mud crabs and blue swimmers
What you need
- Approved collapsible pot or dilly for your state
- Float with your name and details as required by law
- Bait: mullet frames, chicken frames or fish heads
- Bait clip or bait bag inside the pot
How to tie it
- Check your state's pot limits, tagging and float marking rules before you set.
- Secure oily bait in the centre of the pot so crabs must enter fully.
- Set in a drain mouth or beside mangrove roots on the last of the run-out.
- Leave the pot a full tide cycle where regulations allow.
- Measure every crab and return females and undersize immediately.
Catches: Mud crab, Blue swimmer crab
On-water tip: Set pots in the drains that feed a bank, not in the middle of the channel — crabs travel the edges as the water moves.
Most common mistake: Unmarked floats. It is the fastest way to lose your gear and collect a fine in every Australian state.
Squid Jig Rig
Bay, harbour, jettyEasyWorking weed beds and moored ground for calamari
What you need
- Jig size 2.0–3.5 depending on depth and drift
- Leader 10–15 lb fluorocarbon, one metre
- Optional float or bait jig for a paternoster squid setup
How to tie it
- Tie the jig directly to a fluorocarbon leader with a loop knot.
- Cast across the drift and let the jig sink over the weed edge.
- Sharp double-whip of the rod tip, then let the jig glide down.
- Watch the line on the drop — most takes register as a slack-line tick.
- Wind steadily once hooked; do not pump, or you will tear the candles.
Catches: Southern calamari, Arrow squid, Cuttlefish
On-water tip: Change jig colour before you change spots. Natural browns for clear water and bright pinks or oranges in dirty or low light is the standard rotation.
Most common mistake: Letting the jig hit bottom on sand. Squid sit over weed — a jig in the sand is a jig full of grit and no hook-ups.
Flasher (Lumo) Rig
OffshoreEasyDeep-water bottom bouncing where colour and movement pull fish in
What you need
- Pre-tied flasher trace 60–120 lb with two ganged circle hooks
- Snapper lead 8–16 oz
- Heavy swivel or clip
- Strip bait, squid or pilchard to dress the hooks
How to tie it
- Clip the flasher trace to your braid via a heavy swivel.
- Attach the sinker to the bottom of the trace.
- Dress each hook with a small strip so scent adds to the flash.
- Drop to the bottom, wind up two turns, and hold.
- Wind, do not strike, when the rod loads.
Catches: Snapper, Pearl perch, Red emperor, Nannygai, Bar cod
On-water tip: Lumo beads recharge with a torch. Thirty seconds of light before you drop makes a real difference beyond 60 m where daylight has gone.
Most common mistake: Overdressing the hooks with big baits. It kills the flasher's movement and turns a premium rig into an expensive bait trace.
Float Rig
Estuary, rock, breakwallEasySuspending bait at a set depth over weed, rocks and wash
What you need
- Mainline 8–15 lb mono
- Pencil or bobby float sized to the bait and current
- Float stop and bead set at the depth you want to fish
- Small split shot to cock the float
- Leader 60 cm of 8–15 lb fluorocarbon
- Hook: size 6–1/0 baitholder or long shank
How to tie it
- Slide the float stop onto the mainline and set it to your fishing depth.
- Add a bead, then thread the float so it runs on the line.
- Pin one or two split shot below the float so only the tip sits above water.
- Tie on a swivel, then the leader and hook.
- Cast up-current and let the float drift naturally through the strike zone.
Catches: Luderick, Bream, Garfish, Tailor, Trevally
On-water tip: Set the depth so the bait rides just above the weed. Half a metre too deep and you spend the session pulling cabbage off the hook.
Most common mistake: Over-weighting the float so it sits high. A float that does not cock will not register a shy bite.
Carolina Rig
Lake, estuary, flatsEasyDragging soft plastics along the bottom while keeping the lure above the sinker
What you need
- Mainline 10–20 lb braid
- Bullet or barrel sinker 1/8–1/2 oz
- Bead and swivel
- Leader 40–70 cm fluorocarbon
- Worm hook or light jig head with a soft plastic
How to tie it
- Thread the sinker onto the mainline, then a bead.
- Tie the mainline to a swivel.
- Attach the leader to the other end of the swivel.
- Rig the plastic weedless on a worm hook, or use a very light jig head.
- Cast, let it settle and drag slowly with the rod, taking up slack as you go.
Catches: Golden perch, Bass, Flathead, Bream
On-water tip: The lure floats above the sinker rather than pinning to the bottom, which is exactly what you want over soft mud or light weed.
Most common mistake: Retrieving with the reel instead of the rod. Drag with the rod, then wind up the slack.
Flasher / Reef Rig
Offshore reefModerateBottom fishing offshore reef for snapper and reef species
What you need
- Mainline 30–50 lb braid
- Two dropper loops with lumo flasher-dressed hooks 5/0–8/0
- Leader 40–80 lb
- Snapper lead or bomb sinker 4–16 oz depending on depth and drift
How to tie it
- Tie a dropper loop about 40 cm above the sinker.
- Tie a second dropper loop 40 cm above the first.
- Attach flasher-dressed hooks to each loop with a loop-to-loop connection.
- Clip the sinker to the bottom loop or swivel.
- Drop to the bottom, wind up two turns and hold contact through the drift.
Catches: Snapper, Pearl perch, Nannygai, Red emperor, Grass emperor
On-water tip: Bait the flashers with a small strip of squid. The skirt attracts, the bait convinces.
Most common mistake: Sitting on the bottom. Wind up a couple of turns or you spend the drift snagged in the reef.
Livebait Under a Balloon
Offshore, harbour, breakwallModeratePresenting a live bait at a set depth over reef or in current
What you need
- Mainline 30–50 lb braid
- Balloon or float attached with a rubber band at the chosen depth
- Leader 40–80 lb fluorocarbon, 1.5–2 m
- Circle hook 6/0–8/0 or a single/stinger pair
- Live yellowtail, slimy mackerel or mullet
How to tie it
- Rig the live bait through the nose or bridle it with floss.
- Attach the balloon to the mainline with a rubber band at the depth you want.
- Set the drag to a light strike setting so the fish can turn with the bait.
- Let the bait swim out with the current away from the boat or ledge.
- When the balloon goes under, wind steadily — do not strike.
Catches: Yellowtail kingfish, Mulloway, Cobia, Spanish mackerel
On-water tip: A bridled bait swims longer and more naturally than a nose-hooked one. It is worth learning.
Most common mistake: Striking hard on a circle hook. Wind steadily and let the hook find the jaw corner.
Long Shank Whiting Rig
Beach, sand flatsEasyBeach and flats fishing for whiting on worms, nippers and pipis
What you need
- Mainline 6–12 lb
- Small ball sinker running to the swivel
- Leader 50–80 cm of 8–12 lb fluorocarbon
- Long shank hook size 4–1/0
- Optional small red bead or lumo tube above the hook
How to tie it
- Run the ball sinker on the mainline and tie to a small swivel.
- Tie the leader to the swivel and the long shank hook to the leader.
- Slide a bead down to sit above the hook eye if you want extra attraction.
- Thread the worm along the shank, leaving a short tail free.
- Cast into the gutter and keep a slow, gentle lift-and-drop going.
Catches: Sand whiting, Yellowfin whiting, Bream, Dart
On-water tip: Whiting hunt moving baits. A slow drag that stirs sand out-fishes a static bait almost every session.
Most common mistake: Using too much lead. A whiting rig should just hold, never anchor.
Weedless Soft Plastic Rig
Estuary, lake, mangroveModerateFishing plastics through weed, snags, mangrove roots and lily pads
What you need
- Mainline 10–30 lb braid
- Leader 12–30 lb fluorocarbon
- Weighted or unweighted worm hook 2/0–5/0
- Soft plastic jerk shad or paddle tail
How to tie it
- Insert the hook point into the nose of the plastic and out about 1 cm down.
- Slide the plastic up over the hook eye and the shank bend.
- Rotate the hook and lay it along the plastic to measure where the point should exit.
- Push the point through and just re-bury the tip in the body of the plastic.
- Check the plastic is dead straight before casting.
Catches: Barramundi, Mangrove jack, Bass, Flathead, Murray cod
On-water tip: Weedless rigging lets you cast into the timber where the fish actually live rather than fishing the safe water beside it.
Most common mistake: Rigging the plastic crooked. A bent plastic spins and twists the leader within minutes.
Unweighted Berley Trail Rig
Harbour, breakwall, offshore driftEasyDrifting a bait naturally down a berley trail
What you need
- Mainline 8–20 lb
- No sinker, or a single small split shot
- Leader 1–2 m of fluorocarbon
- Hook: 1/0–4/0 suicide or circle to suit the bait
- Berley bucket or pot of pilchard mince
How to tie it
- Set a steady berley trail — small and constant, never a dump.
- Tie a long leader straight to the hook with no weight.
- Pin a light bait such as a pilchard cube or a strip of squid.
- Feed line freely so the bait drifts at the same speed as the berley.
- Wind on when the line begins to run steadily.
Catches: Snapper, Trevally, Salmon, Kingfish, Sweep
On-water tip: The bait must sink at the same rate as the berley. Any weight at all makes it fall out of the trail and get ignored.
Most common mistake: Over-berleying. Too much food and the fish never need to find your bait.
Squid Jig Rig
Bay, jetty, weed bedsEasyTargeting southern calamari and arrow squid over weed beds and jetties
What you need
- Light 7–8 ft rod, 2500 reel
- Mainline 8–15 lb braid
- Leader 10–15 lb fluorocarbon, about 1 m
- Squid jig size 2.0–3.5 to suit depth and water clarity
How to tie it
- Tie the leader to braid with a double uni or FG.
- Attach the jig with a loop knot so it swims freely.
- Cast over the weed edge and let the jig sink on a controlled line.
- Two sharp upward whips of the rod, then pause and let it sink again.
- Keep steady pressure once hooked — no pumping, or the jig pulls free.
Catches: Southern calamari, Arrow squid
On-water tip: Size 2.5 in clear shallow water, 3.0–3.5 in deeper or dirtier water. Natural browns by day, lumo at night.
Most common mistake: Lifting a hooked squid straight out of the water — use a net, or the barbs tear out at the surface.
Choosing a rig for the day
Rig choice follows three questions in order: how deep is the water, how hard is it moving, and is the bottom clean or snaggy. Shallow and clean means the lightest running sinker or jig head you can control. Deep and moving means a paternoster or flasher that keeps the bait presented above the bottom. Snaggy ground means weedless plastics, floats or short traces you can afford to lose.
Weight is the variable most anglers get wrong. Every extra sinker size makes your presentation less natural and your bite detection worse. Start too light, and only add lead once you genuinely cannot hold or feel the bottom.
Leader length and rating matter more than brand. As a rule, run leader at roughly double your braid rating for open water and triple it around oysters, rock and reef. Check the last metre for scuffs after every fish and retie without hesitation — a re-tie takes two minutes and a lost fish of a lifetime takes years to replace.
Bag limits, size limits, closures and gear rules such as crab pot numbers differ in every state and territory and change regularly. Always confirm current rules with your state fisheries authority before you fish.
